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The nine Oscars red carpet outfits were once mocked — now iconic
When Kristen Stewart showed up to last year's Oscars in casual Chanel pants, a cropped tuxedo jacket and a white shirt unbuttoned at the waist, it was hailed by many as an iconic fashion moment — but not shocking. Here was one of Hollywood's most unique young actresses using the red carpet to express her individuality. "It was the only chance to be me," she said of her choice. Same with Timothée Chalamet's sequined Louis Vuitton jacket – part of the womenswear collection. New Hollywood was showing that when it comes to the red carpet, there are no rules – but it wasn't always that way.
The Academy Awards are not only the biggest night of the year in film, but also fashion. As Dijanna Mulhearn, author of the new book Oscars on the Red Carpet, tells BBC Culture: "A successful red carpet moment can catapult an actor to superstar status, propel a fashion label into a coveted name family, result in profitable commercial contracts and secure the next leading role".
"These outfits changed something and challenged strict dress codes – but we realize, as we go along, that's not so shocking" – Caroline Stevenson
Everyone wants to make an impact on the red carpet – but over the years some outfits have caused far more buzz than others, from Bjork's unforgettable swan dress to Gwyneth's badass goth-punk look to Billy Porter's dramatic tuxedo. For some celebrities, getting people's attention was the whole point – while others had no idea their outfits would cause such outrage. However, as controversial as these outfits were at the time, it's undoubtedly the boundary-pushing looks we remember most, even if, today, it's sometimes hard to see what all the fuss was about.
"[These clothes] changed something and challenged the strict codes of women's and men's dress," says Caroline Stevenson, program director of fashion studies and cultural and historical studies at the London College of Fashion, UAL. "But we realize as we go along, it's not that shocking. Something changes the bar and then we get used to it and then we move on." Here we recall nine shape-shifting Oscars fashion moments.

1. Julie Christie, 1967
Në kohën kur mbërriti në ceremoninë e Oscars në vitin 1967, Julie Christie tashmë kishte një reputacion për veshjen rebele në tapetin e kuq. Një vit më parë, kur ajo fitoi çmimin për aktoren më të mirë për rolin e saj në filmin "Darling", ajo u shfaq me një 'jumpsuit lame' prej ari të bërë vetë, duke e bërë atë gruan e parë që pranoi një Oscar duke veshur pantallona. Por ishte fustani mini me pika i vitit pasardhës që bëri vërtet bujë.
Pasi shfaqja filloi të transmetohej në televizion në vitet 1950, Akademia caktoi stilisten e kostumeve Edith Head për të shërbyer si konsulente modës për ceremoninë. "Ajo ishte në prapaskenë me një grup të tërë mjetesh për të zgjuar aktoret që mund të kishin qenë paksa shumë të ekspozuara, si rozeta për të mbuluar dekoltenë, ose një mbështjellës byrynxhyk për të vendosur mbi një fund të prerë shumë të lartë ose shumë të shkurtër," thotë Mulhearn. Mini fundet sigurisht që nuk konsideroheshin si veshje e duhur për një ceremoni çmimesh në atë kohë – më së paku një version i rrugës së lartë.

"Por Julie Christie arriti të kalonte Edith Head me buzëqeshjen e saj me diell dhe Edith nuk ngriti kokën derisa dëgjoi audiencën të gulçonte," thotë Mulhearn. Ishte një moment kyç në modën e Oscars, kur protokolli i modës filloi t'i hapte rrugë lirisë së shprehjes. Atë vit revista 'Time' tha se ajo që kishte veshur Christie kishte "më shumë ndikim real në modë sesa të gjitha veshjet e 10 grave të veshura më mirë së bashku".
"Julie Christie theu rregullat," thotë Mulhearn. “Dyert u hapën falë saj”.
2.Barbra Streisand, 1969

Për të fituar Oscar-in e saj të parë për aktoren më të mirë për Funny Girl, një 26-vjeçare Barbra Streisand po peshonte dy opsione veshjesh; një fustan klasik dhe konservator Dior, ose një kostum pantallonash me teka Arnold Scaasi, me fund zile. "Mendoj se dikush i tha asaj, mirë, nëse vesh [kostumin e pantallonave], do të bësh vërtet një deklaratë. Dhe kjo ishte gjithçka që ajo duhej të dëgjonte. Kështu ajo shkoi me pizhamet e festës, duke mos e kuptuar se nën dritat, ata ishin plotësisht të dukshme”, thotë Mulhearn. "Ndërsa ajo ngjit shkallët, prapanica e saj ishte aty për ta parë të gjithë, dhe i vetmi person që nuk e dinte këtë, ishte ajo."
Atë vit fituesja si aktorja më e mirë ishte një lidhje historike mes saj dhe Katharine Hepburn, por vetëm Streisand ishte i pranishëm për të marrë çmimin e saj - dhe veshja e saj nënkuptonte se ishte ajo që dominonte faqet e para të nesërmen. "Ishte një shembull tjetër i të rinjve që dolën jashtë normave dhe u shkëputën nga prangat e asaj që një brez i vjetër u diktoi atyre, duke thënë: ne jemi të lirë dhe të pavarur dhe ne i marrim vendimet tona," thotë Mulhearn.
4 Gwyneth Paltrow, 2002

"Të gjithë e urrenin me të vërtetë këtë [fustan]... por unë mendoj se është një lloj droge," tha Gwyneth Paltrow në 2021-shin, duke kujtuar pamjen e saj shumë të keqtrajtuar të Oscars 2002. Në atë kohë, redaktori i modës i 'Guardian' e quajti veshjen e saj Alexander McQueen "më shumë Camden Market sesa tapeti i kuq", ndërsa Suzy Menkes nga International Herald Tribune tha se Paltrow dukej sikur "kishte nisur për të parë trajnerin e saj personal".
Mulhearn thotë se kritikat ishin të padrejta. “Në fakt mendova se ishte një zgjedhje e mirë dhe nga këndvështrimi i modës i dha asaj më shumë thellësi”, thotë ajo. "Unë mendoj se një nga arsyet që njerëzit reaguan kaq keq ishte sepse kur ajo kishte fituar çmimin e saj për aktoren më të mirë disa vite më parë, ajo dukej shumë e bukur, pothuajse si një princeshë. Dhe pastaj papritmas ajo vjen në një pamje krejtësisht të ndryshme, dhe ishte i mërzitur ta shihte atë të shkojë kaq larg."
Caroline Stevenson agrees that Paltrow was targeted for daring to try something different. "I think it's a really beautiful sight, but I can totally understand why it was kind of insulted," she says. Paltrow has since said she regrets not wearing a bra. "But I think it was more the harshness of her hair and makeup and jewelry, which seemed kind of semi-Gothic, that people were criticizing ," says Stevenson. "I just don't think people were ready to see something almost borderline subculture on the Oscars red carpet. It just shows how rigid the dress code is around the Oscars and how anything that even slightly deviates from that is, for some reason, too shocking for the press or the public".
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